Paddling the Rivers of the Mendocino Coast

Three fine paddling destinations enter the Pacific Ocean along the Mendocino Coast. Thanks to Sierra Club trip leaders Larry and Shelly, who organized this outing, a small group of us were able to enjoy them all during a well-organized outing in November, 2014.

Strictly, these rivers, the Noyo, Big, and Albion, are semi-mature, tide dominated, drowned valley estuaries. Meaning that their winding meanders originally formed as they flowed across a level coastal plain, since uplifted to form the mountains and seacoast terraces that characterize the present day Mendocino Coast.

Russian Gulch

Russian Gulch

Russian Gulch State park contains the essence of the Mendocino Coast within its boundaries that stretch from bluffs with views of a huge sink hole, rock arches, and booming Pacific rollers, to a narrow canyon filled with overhanging redwoods, quiet birdsong, ferns, and a delicate waterfall.

During time off from paddling, I lingered with our little motor home on the bluffs here. I walked, read, and hibernated through one restorative drizzly day. Later in the week when the sky was clear I photographed the magic hours in the morning and evening. 

The waterfall at Russian Gulch SP

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Boom!

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The "Magic Hour"
The best light happens when other people are eating - Galen Rowel

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Backlight on waves and early morning mist

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Its best to watch your feet when walking the bluff-edge paths; both to avoid a stumble as well as to see the beauty underfoot.

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Early morning light at Russian Gulch
“Twice each day the cool, blue light of night interacts with the warm tones of daylight. Luckily for color photographers, these events, though predictable, are not consistent. For a full hour at either end of the day colors of light mix together in endless combinations, as if someone in the sky were shaking a kaleidoscope.”---- Galen Rowell (1940-2002)

The Rivers

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These rivers once provided pathways for moving harvested redwoods from their primeval forests to the seacoast where they were loaded onto sailing vessels. Towns grew up at the river mouths, which exist now as destinations for those that come to enjoy this lovely area. The old pilings in the rivers, once used as wharves during the lumber trade, are now rotting, and serve as perches for the great blue herons, kingfishers, and egrets. Curious seals poke their heads from the water, and river otters enjoy their meals seemingly unconcerned as paddlers drift by.

The tides flow in, and the tides flow out. And if you can catch them just right, as we did for three days in a row on the Noyo, Big, and Albion Rivers, paddling through these lovely canyons and enjoying their wildlife is all that more fun.

Big River

Aptly named, this estuary can be paddled for at least seven miles inland from where it enters the ocean just south of the town of Mendocino. I always like to check in with the folks at Catch-A-Canoe, where colorful watercraft that can be rented for paddling and even sailing the river line the pier below the humble but cozy building that clings to the cliffs at the river mouth. If I've forgotten anything from a windbreaker to paddles they can provide them. But usually I just quiz them on the tide schedule. It is surprising how even a small current flowing against you can make it feel as if your canoe or kayak is dragging an anchor, or how delightful and encouraging a little helpful push can be when returning, tired and paddling against the wind that always comes in from the ocean later in the day.

The launching point is on the opposite, north shore, where a road from the north end of the Highway 1 bridge leads across a bar to a gently sloping ramp. The tide was coming in quickly and rising fast - we had to continually pull our boats up as folks were getting sorted out, to keep them from drifting away.

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The put-in at Big River is one of my happy places. I first paddled here with my sons in the late 1970's. My wife and I have paddled its length in a Coleman, and later in our pretty red We-No-Nah several times, always coming back from the adventure in that mellow and refreshed mood that follows a bit of an outdoor workout.

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Great blue heron at ease

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Always fun to sneak around the obstacles on the river's edge. As you can see, the tide was quite high. We caught the tides perfectly on all three days - going upstream with the rise and out with the ebb.

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Happiness on the water

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Heading back down river. We were fortunate not only to have the tide with us, but only light winds from the west as well.

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Big River road was probably originally put in as a logging road.

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A river otter looked up from a snack - then continued with his meal.

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A curious river otter

The Albion River

The launching point is from the Schooner's Landing Marina at the end of Albion River North Side Road. There is a $5 fee. 

Floating weekend cottages on the Albion River

Afternoon light on the Albion

Lunch stop on the Albion

We chatted up the owner of this floating home. He built it and has lived there since the 1970's. A mellow fellow, says he likes watching the light and the critters.

The Noyo River

The smallest of the estuaries we paddled, the mouth of the Noyo forms the areas largest harbor, with hundreds of fishing and pleasure boats moored in it. We launched from a public ramp along South River Road.

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As a long-time fishing harbor, the upper reaches of the marina house some picturesque hulks.

Launching was observed by a lone swan

Happy paddlers. Author in blue life jacket.

Paddling the Noyo. the high tide allowed us to paddle further than any of us had been able to go before.

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A Trio of Teutonic typers - Part II

It was back in the middle of October that I began to document a September binge which resulted in the acquisition of three typewriters. A binge with its focus on German typewriters of the 1960's and earlier. This is consistent with my typewriter roots, as not only was my high school typer a 1957 Olympia SM3, but most of my grandparents originated in Germany as well. All solid, reliable, and pleasant to spend time with.

Part I focused on an Adler J3:

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Part II will cover this Optima Super

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Protruding from the base of the typewriter is the release for the spring-loaded ribbon cover.

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My thumb covers the left-hand case release lever; its mate is opposite on the right. Above the case release levers is another pair of levers that release the ribbon cover, allowing it to be completely removed.

The paper support can be extended making a gauge to help you stop at the bottom of page margin. 

The key with the plus sign sets tabs. The odd blue lever below and to its left is the key de-jammer.

The nice leatherette case, with that nifty hold-down system. Simple, secure, and easy to use. The case to the left holds the subject of Part III of this mini-series on my September Teutonic Trio - guesses anyone?

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A Red Corona 4 and a Happy, Misty Morning

The red and whimsical Corona No. 4

A misty morning in the golden, rollin' hills of California

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Nandina berries - flickers will eat them at first hint of ripeness

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I like the sunlight glints on the tiny water drops on the blue fescue ...

... and the leaves of the Japanese maple.

The doggies impatience shows when i carry a camera on our walks ...

... but I can't resist stopping to play with shadow and color in the lower garden.

Across the street the "horse lady" enjoys the early sunshine and just watching her horses.

Up in back a fig leaf rests on a little pile of firewood...

... the blue frog peeks from the bergennia ...

... and a squirrel steals some bird seed.

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Oh, yeah ... the garage. Prepare to be amazed by the transformation.

"Oly" Comes Out to Play

The Mountains Are Calling And I Must Go

An Eastern Sierra Adventure

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The Mountains Call

Last weekend my grandson David and I heeded that call in John Muir's quote, packed up my little 1988 Toyota motorhome known as "Minnie Winnie" and headed south from Reno on US 395. The route parallels the steep east front of the Sierra Nevada to the west, and the Great Basin deserts to the east. This is probably one of the more spectacular highways in the world - it is certainly a favorite drive of mine.

The desert of the Great Basin on the east side of the Sierra Nevada

Our destination was the glacier-carved canyon of Bishop Creek west of the town of Bishop. I'd been hoping to photograph some fall color, but the web site of a local resort was not encouraging. "You've missed it" was the disappointing information it provided. Well, no matter - fall can be lovely even when the leaves are on the ground and scattered colorfully over the granite boulders of those Sierra canyons, and besides, the fun would really be just getting out on another adventure with my grandson.

Grandson David

I'm fortunate to have seven children and thirteen or so grandchildren. Always one of the most enjoyable aspects of parenthood to me has been the availability of companions (victims?) to share adventures great and small, and David and I have shared several. During our drive down 395we reminisced about our adventures in computing a couple of decades earlier, with him on my lap as we explored the world of Myst.

The magic of the Eastern Sierra is in the contrasts - elevations that vary by many thousands of feet in just a short distance, with the corresponding change from desert to alpine plants during a short drive. And so after a last stop for a few groceries to fill in the gaps in our larder we were slowly climbing from desert sage outside of Bishop at about 4,200 foot elevation to crawl at low gear through the summer home community of Aspendell at 8,500 feet and its surrounding pines and colorful aspen forest. And the leaves were not only still hanging onto the trees, but spectacularly so.

A couple of miles above Aspendell and just below Lake Sabrina and nestled into aspens alongside Bishop Creek we found a snug campsite just the right fit for Minnie Winnie. It was dark and cooling off by the time we sat down for a grilled steak salad. The warmth of Minnie Winnie's bunks beckoned, but first we headed out for a look at the night sky. So we climbed the glacial moraine next to our camp to gape at the countless stars and the bright swath of the milky way directly over our heads, and wonder at the fact that the sun is one of billions of stars in our galaxy, and that our galaxy is one of billions of other galaxies in the universe. In between wondering and feeling small I set up a tripod with my big Nikon on it and played with combinations of ISO and f/stops to eke the best resolution from my limited photographic gear. But those bunks in Minnie Winnie soon called to us. David loaned me a fleece-lined "beanie" to warm my nearly bald head. Good thing, because I just had to keep the little window at the head of my bunk open to let in the sound of the creek.

Aspen along Bishop Creek below Lake Sabrina

Minnie Winnie in her campsite in the romantically-named campground, "Upper Intake2"

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Billions and billions - the Milky Way glows over our campground

Bishop Creek

The next day we enjoyed a leisurely morning. Well, some of us did. I crawled out in the early chilly dark trying not to wake David.  I gathered clunky camera gear to attempt to capture the dawn light on the Sierra peaks. That didn't work out, but it's always a nice experience to be out at that unusual hour in such a beautiful area, although I craved a toothbrush and coffee. Down by the creek I managed to capture the rushing water and some aspen in the soft, pre-dawn light.

With the sun well up we made some Krusteze blueberry pancakes and fried eggs on the Coleman stove, made some lunches, and finally parked near the Lake Sabrina outleat at the trailhead for Blue Lake about 11 am. Definitely a leisurely start to soak up what was turning into a beautiful day.
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By noon we were well on the way, heading ever upward on a beautiful trail apparently built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930's, from the lovely stonework steps and buttresses. The trail begins with a gradual inclining traverse parallel to Lake Sabrina. Once opposite the west end of the lake the trail begins to seriously gain elevation with switchbacks through some lodgepole pine woods, around a ridge, then more switchbacks up and out of a spectacular gorge just below Blue Lake.
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David waited with kind patience for his grandpa, as I puffed and paused my way up. As a flatlander, living down at about 1,000 feet, the thin air was definitely an issue for me, but by taking it slowly and pausing every other switchback or so, I was never so uncomfortable as to not be able to enjoy the spectacular alpine scenery and the ambient scents and sounds. Birdsong was frequently present, especially in the more wooded areas, and the spicy aroma of warm sunlight on the pines and a bit of horse manure made a classical Sierra trail ambient mix.

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The sculpting effect of glaciation events which began about 2.5 million years ago and last occurred just 15,000 years ago is evident from the distant views of classical U-shaped valleys and cirques, and up close as in this slope of polished and striated granite.

While the views on the way up were spectacular, the sweetest was the first view of the lake as we topped out alongside its outlet creek. Rugged pines growing from fissures in the granite reflected in the outlet pools and framed the lake, which was indeed blue, and the alpine peaks beyond. The 2-1/2 mile and 1,300 foot climb had taken us about four hours, what with all of my pauses to puff and photograph, so it was getting to be late afternoon and clouds were beginning to form. Nevertheless we gave ourselves about an hour to rest, explore, and generally just absorb the scene before heading back down again. Back in camp we talked about returning in the spring to spend more time; explore around a bit. Although the thought of backpacking up all those switchbacks is a bit daunting, I'll bet the mountains will call.

Blue Lake

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A Trio of Teutonic Typers Part I

Tony's Typewriter Toot - Part 1 of 3 - Adler Junior 3

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That screw, held snug by a lock nut, is duplicated at the other end of the carriage. They control how high the carriage lifts when the shift key is pressed.

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Loosen it with a 5,5 mm socket - if you dare ...

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...then hold the lock nut from turning while diddling with the screw. It needed to get loosened (counterclockwise turn) just the right amount to allow the platten to rise to meet the type slug just right. Repeat on the other side. Then test. Then diddle more ... repeat ... and finally H's and I's print clear, top to bottom. But we're not done yet - there is a matching pair of screws underneath. They control the resting position of the carriage, i.e., the lower case position. These screws needed to go in (closkwise turn). I worked with both pairs of adjustments to get the platten raised to the sweet position where the type slugs hit just right. 

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At some point I discovered this adjustment - that black screw in the center controls the downward range of the shift key. It prevents an over-energetic typist from jamming the carriage against the stops. It needs to be set to limit the travel of the shift key just at the point where the carriage rises to meet the height adjustment screws. It has a companion beneath the right hand shift key. So there were three pairs of adjustment screws, and their lock nuts, to deal with.